It’s tough like a boat engine! Unlike its automotive cousins, a speed boat engine runs at extremely high RPM’s and under a good load a lot more operation and yes it sits kept in storage a considerable amount of the time. It’s kind of the worst of all possible. Today’s marine engines are very well made and unlike their predecessors, really experience very few mechanical problems should they be properly maintained.
Water Pump Maintenance – Most marine engines are cooled by their pumping of lake or ocean water in the engine from the pickup in the lower unit from the outdrive or outboard engine. This water is circulated with a water pump that contains a rubber or plastic impeller or fan which pulls water in the lake and pumps it down and throughout the lake jacket of the engine to keep things cool. You may expect, there are sometimes impurities in the water or the operator (somebody else, I’m sure) that runs the lower unit aground along with the impeller covers sand, dirt or another grit. These foreign substances wear on the impeller and sometimes allow it to shred into pieces and fail. Also, when the engine is stored for a period of nearly a year, sometimes the rubber of the impeller gets brittle and cracks up. In either case, it is simply a good idea to proactively switch the impeller every 3-4 boating seasons. If the impeller fails while you are running and also you neglect the temperature rising, your engine can simply and quickly overheat and self destruct.
Oil Change – Marine engines are usually not run more than 60-80 hours a year and, therefore, don’t require oil changes sometimes. Usually, this is a good idea to improve the oil (and filter) once each year at the end of the time of year. In the event the old, dirty oil influences crankcase once the engine is held in the off-season, it can turn acid and damage the inner engine components it is supposed to protect. Of course, 2 stroke outboards haven’t any crankcase and therefore no oil to improve. On these applications, it certainly does pay to stabilize any fuel residing in the tank and fog the engine with fogging oil before storage.
Fuel Injectors – Most newer marine engines are fuel injected and, when fuel is permitted age and thicken during storage, the fuel injectors can certainly become clogged and may even fail at the outset of the season. To avoid this occurrence, it’s a wise decision to run some fuel injector cleaner mixed in the last tank of fuel ahead of the engine is scheduled up for storage.
Battery – For proper your boat’s battery, it will offer you several years of good service. You need to be careful if you complete a voyage to ensure that all electrical components are powered down and, for those who have an important battery switch, ensure that it can be deterred. Whenever the boat is stored for any prolonged stretch of time, the car battery cables should be disconnected.
Lower Unit Lubrication – The bottom portion of your outdrive or outboard engine is filled with a lubricant fluid that keeps every one of the moving parts properly lubricated and running smoothly. The reservoir must not contain any water from the fluid. The drive must be inspected a minimum of annually to make sure that the drive is filled with fluid understanding that no water exists. This is not at all hard and inexpensive to accomplish.
Electronic Control Module – Most contemporary marine engines are controlled with a computer call an ‘Electronic Control Module’ (ECM) which regulates the flow of fuel and air and also the timing with the ignition system. Another valuable objective of the ECM is that it stores operational data even though the engine is running. Certified marine mechanics have digital diagnostic tools which can be coupled to the ECM to understand the functional history of the engines along with any problems.
Anodes On the underwater portion of every outdrive and outboard engine, you can find one or more little metal attachments called ‘anodes’. They normally are made of zinc and so are built to attract stray electrolysis. This takes place when stray voltage inside the electric system of your boat is transmitted from the metal elements of the boat looking for a ground. The anodes are designed to be sacrificial also to absorb the stray current and gradually deteriorate. This process is magnified in salt water. One or more times 12 months, you can even examine your anodes for decay and replace those who have decayed greatly. Replacement anodes are certainly not tremendously expensive and so they actually protect your boat from some serious decay of some very costly metal marine parts.
If your marine engine is properly maintained, it must present you with a lot of hassle free operation. It ought to be imperative that you you to definitely know an experienced marine technician in your area. There’s things, “An ounce of prevention will be worth a pound of cure”.
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